Pueblos Magicos Fall Tour 2025

Diary 8

After radically altering my expected itinerary due to torrid weather in the southeast, I found

myself with some extra time on my hands. I have long had my eye on the green forested

foothills to the east of Puerto Vallarta which contains three Pueblos Mágicos. Visiting them has

always been a bit of a detour for me. The only significant city nearby is PV, a locale that I avoid

whenever possible. Now scoring a $60 budget plane ticket from Mexico City, pretty much what I

would pay for fifteen hours of bus riding, I decided to take the plunge.

I had two days available before my flight while leaving delightful but icy Huamantla. This

included the Day of the Dead. I have spent it and its attendant week in a number of Magic

Towns in the past few years. So now I could see what it would be like in the big city. This choice

was validated as the festivities in the main Zocalo were an entertaining treat for both the eyes

and ears. Anyway I am always happy to spend some time in Mexico City as there is so much to

do and see. And it is also where I can pig out on unlimited fresh broccoli at my secret all-you-

can-eat Chinese buffet which dares to charge 80 pesos ($4). Another thing I enjoy about Mexico

City is that the Metro runs directly to the airport making travel planning a snap.

Unfortunately the flight schedule made it necessary to spend a night in Puerto Vallarta. I

researched the bus station where I would depart for Mascota on the following morning and

found a passable hotel only a couple of minutes away. Arriving at the airport, I quickly found my

way out with my light pack, walked a block to the main drag into town, and caught a 10 peso

public bus which deposited me right in front of Hotel Mar Elena (my daughter’s name is Marisol

Elena so it was an obvious choice). The whole thing was painless. I had dinner at a close by

restaurant and watched the World Series where the wrong team won. I also had a pleasant chat

with the desk clerk. I asked him how many of his foreign guests spoke any Spanish. He

guessed about 1%.

Early in the morning I wolfed my included breakfast at the Mar Elena restaurant. And soon

enough I was on the bus which after leaving the disheartening and tacky sprawl of PV, which

seems to get worse every year, treated me to scenic hilly delight for most of the next two and a

half hours.

My easy time continued in Mascota. The bus deposited me in the Centro just a few steps from

the Boutique Hotel Copa de Oro. I practically had to rub my eyes when I walked in. This had to

be one of the most gorgeous lodging entrances I have ever seen, a riot of flowers and plants in

a garden dotted with art and sculpture. Plenty of birds too. My room was equal to this first

impression. Clean, pretty, comfy, quiet, everything working perfectly, coffee and tea in the hall,

and all of this for the exorbitant price of $45! A paradise even for the budget traveler.

Mascota has a storied history. In the middle of a rich prehistoric agricultural region that soon

became a mining town as well, it was established for the Spanish by a confederate of Cortez in

1525. I had wondered about the name which is the modern word for pet as in dog or cat. It turns

out that it is an indigenous name meaning “place of the deer and snakes.” I live in Mazatlán

which is Nahautl for place of the deer. They can have the snakes.

The entire small Centro with its old architecture is a visual treat. Although there is nothing

exceptional about any of it, the views are good enough. And with the Dia de Muertos

decorations up, everything was prettier still. Mascota is a prosperous town. I walked the streets

which sported uniformly attractive buildings, residences, and restaurants. I did not see any poor

district. The town with its beautiful surrounding scenery attracts many artistic and new age

types, so there is plenty going on. One activity was taking a bit of a sweaty hike to a viewpoint

with a cross - there seems always to be a cross - and was well rewarded with the panorama.

The best attraction in town is the Unfinished Templo de la Preciosa Sangre (Precious Blood).

A ten minute walk from the center, surrounding a modern seminary, these buildings and

impeccably tended gardens are a welcome respite from the heat and noise of Mexico. Highly

recommended.

There are plenty of attractive restaurants in Mascota. The central mercado is spic and span

and artistically decorated. I had a delicious breakfast upstairs with a nice view, served by an

ultra-friendly and educated Señora. Later I had a fine meal of chile rellenos which included

potato soup. The tab including a chilled Negra Modelo was under $10.

The second evening there was a celebratory parade around the main plaza which was mainly

school age children making music, riding ponies and so forth. The whole thing was a colorful

and melodic delight. There were many food stalls on a side street just off the plaza. I sat among

the decorations and festivities munching on a chicken burger with fries for $5.

Any way you cut it, a few nights spent in this Magical town sleeping at the Copa de Oro is an

experience you wouldn’t want to miss. And as usual, no foreigners.